AMIRISU | Strata Issue 22, Spring/Summer 2021

I’m excited share that we’ve just added Amirisu Magazine to our growing collection of BOOKS + PERIODICALS.

New to Amirisu? It’s a bi-annual knitting lifestyle magazine from Japan. What more could you ask for.

Our inaugural issue Strata - Issue 22 Spring/Summer 2021 takes inspiration from layers and features twelve knitwear designs created by some of Amirisu’s most favourite designers from Japan and abroad.

With feature article - Colours of OkinawaIn. A craft guide to Okinawa, encounter two fascinating textile traditions and get inspiration for a future trip with our recommendations for museums, textile workshops, and pottery galleries on the island.

Plus a project from Lori Ann Graham, virtual events and content to enjoy from anywhere, a needle felt project, and more.

We have now sold out of Issue 22.
Digital copies are available HERE.
Or, shop Amirisu’s current titles HERE.

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Let’s Take a Closer Look….

Humboldt

By amirisu

Pattern notes: A bottom-up sweater worked in the round with lace detail yoke.
What we love: Delicate lace pattern reminiscent of the veins on an ageing leaf.
Yarn suggestions: Linen or linen blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Humboldt pattern page

Ranunculus

By Trine Bertelsen

Pattern notes: Top-down construction with a simple lace motive.
What we love: Sleeve and body length can be tailored to suit.
Yarn suggestions: Pima cotton or cotton blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Ranunculus pattern page

Thistle

By Sari Nordlund

Pattern notes: Cuff-to-toe construction with reinforced heel flap.
What we love: A new heel technique to try - Round French heels!
Yarn suggestions: 100% wool or sock blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Thistle pattern page

Fay (above)

By Fiona Alice

Pattern notes: Bottom-up construction using a mix of flat knitting and knitting in the round.
What we love: Advanced construction techniques for when you’re up for a challenging knit.
Yarn suggestions: Cotton or cotton/wool blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Fay pattern page

Sand Waves (above)

By Ririko

Pattern notes: Top-down seamless construction.
What we love: It just has to be the the gentle waves around the yoke.
Yarn suggestions: 100% wool or sock blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Sand Waves pattern page

Nigella (above)

By Kate Gagnon Osborn

Pattern notes: Slight asymmetrical design worked from the neck out.
What we love: A mix of interesting textures sure to make for an engaging knit.
Yarn suggestions: 100% wool or wool blend sport weight yarn.
Ravelry: Nigella pattern page

Agave (above)

By Orlane Sucche

Pattern notes: Worked top-down and in-the-round with very on trend sleeve shaping.
What we love: The stripes with repeating eyelet detail.
Yarn suggestions: 100% wool or wool blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Agave pattern page

Blomsterkrans (above)

By Dianna Walla

Pattern notes: Hat and cowl set using stranded colourwork.
What we love: The flower motives!
Yarn suggestions: 100% wool or wool blend light-fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Agave pattern page

Calathea

By amirisu

Pattern notes: Neckerchief worked flat utilising increases and decreases to shape the piece.
What we love: A mismatch of yarn weights and fibres to create interesting colour and texture.
Yarn suggestions: Linen blend lace weight yarn and a wool blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Calathea pattern page

Lelia (above)

By Nataliya Sinelshchikova

Pattern notes: A drop-shoulder pullover knit flat from the bottom up.
What we love: An array of techniques to keep you busy.
Yarn suggestions: Textured wool yarn in a DK weight.
Ravelry: Lelia pattern page

Plumeria (above)

By eri shimizu

Pattern notes: A pullover worked top down. German short rows are used to shape the neckline.
What we love: The layers of luxurious alpaca/cashmere.
Yarn suggestions: Alpaca/cashmere blend lace weight yarn and a wool blend fingering weight yarn.
Ravelry: Plumeria pattern page

Liila (above)

By Sari Nordlund

Pattern notes: A vest worked bottom-up, in-the-round. The ruffle is worked separately and seamed to the finished fabric.
What we love: The fine fabric created using the Merino/alpaca bland.
Yarn suggestions: Merino/alpaca blend lace weight yarn and a mohair/silk for lace weight yarn.
Ravelry: Liila pattern page

We have now sold out of Issue 22.
Digital copies are available HERE.
Or, shop Amirisu’s current titles HERE.

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Let’s Get Started…

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Project bags with origin

COHANA | Carriers & Totes

If you’re after a project bag with origin, then you’ll love Cohana’s range of stylish canvas carriers and washi paper totes.

Raw materials are sourced from around Japan from manufacturers with decades of experience.

Each piece is handworked by skilled artisans using designs that have been carefully considered so that they produce minimal waste.

With an ethos of practicality and durability, the Cohana range of carriers & totes are sure to become a favourite.

Browse the complete range HERE.

Andrea - Loom & Spindle

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Let’s Take a Closer Look….

Waxed Canvas Tool Carrier

By Cohana

With its practical basket-like shape this carrier is the perfect accessory for organising small projects. Exterior pockets make for convenient storage of smaller tools and notions. SHOP NOW

Waxed Canvas Accessory Pouch

By Cohana

Designed to nest neatly in the Cohana Waxed Canvas Tool Carrier, project organisation has never been so easy. SHOP NOW

Washi Paper Project Bag

By Cohana

washi paper softens and creases naturally with use, this bag will gain a charming patina over time. SHOP NOW

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It’s good to be back…

SUOMEN LANKA | Cotton Cords + Twines

It was a certainly a looong lockdown for us here in Australia without access to our favourite cords and twines from Suomen Lanka.

In fact, a full year went by before postage resumed between us and Finland!

To celebrate the restock we have a host of new colours from the MOLLA line and all your favourite LIINA classics.

+ We added a new one for you! Introducing MOPPARI, a thick cotton rope macramé cord with eco credentials perfect for knotted textiles and handcrafts.

Browse the complete range HERE.

Andrea - Loom & Spindle

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Let’s Take a Closer Look….

LIINA COTTON TWINE
By Suomen Lanka

Whether you’re a dedicated tapestry or rug weaver or enjoy crochet, macramé, or knitting, use Liina Cotton Twine for a range of home décor projects, interior textiles and personal accessories. Available in 12 and 18 ply weights, the collection includes a palette of neutrals and bright primaries. SHOP NOW

MOLLA COTTON TWINE
By Suomen Lanka

Molla Cotton Twine is the result of an exciting collaboration between Finnish crochet designer and author, Molla Mills and Suomen Lanka to bring you a signature colour palette that’s completely interchangeable with the Liinna Cotton Twine range. SHOP NOW

MOPPARI
By Suomen Lanka

Growing in popularity is Moppari twisted mop yarn, a thick cotton rope macramé cord for knotted textiles and handcrafts. Moppari comprises 80% recycled cotton, reclaimed from cutting waste produced by the textile industry. With its extensive colour palette and range of applications, Moppari is sure to become Australia’s favourite macramé cord. SHOP NOW

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Some time ago I was in the mood for a bit of a ‘de-stress’ spin.

To just spin and let a project evolve organically.

I didn’t want to think too hard about all the variables that often stop a new project in its tracks. Things like fibre prep, colour distribution and what the final project might be.

I just wanted to spin a yarn, then knit the yarn.

With this ethos I made my start. Along the way there were some key decisions that helped shape the direction of the project. I’ve detailed this journey below.

Andrea - Loom & Spindle

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STUDIO PROJECT: Grateful Moments Shawl

INTENTION

• Spin a yarn.

• Knit the yarn.

SKILLS

HAND SPINNING

• Fibre preparation

• Spinning singles

• Plying

• Finishing hand spun yarns

KNITTING

• Casting on/off

• Knitting flat

• Increasing and decreasing

• Reading charts for lacework

TOOLS

HAND SPINNING

• Louet S17 Spinning Wheel

• Yarn Gauge

KNITTING

• 3.5 mm (US 4) 80cm circular needles (I used Chiaogoo Spin Bamboo Interchangables)

MATERIALS

100g x Wren & Ollie Superwash Merino/Nylon Spinning Fibre | Colourway, Salt and Pepper

PATTERN

The Grateful Moments shawl pattern was designed by Sylvia McFadden, first published in September 2015. It is available to purchase as a digital download at Ravelry.com.

PROCESS

THE SPIN

• On fibre selection - I really just let the fibre choose me. I had a braid of Wren & Ollie Superwash Merino/Nylon spinning fibre that I’d recently acquired. I was drawn to its saturated splashes of pink and attention-grabbing speckles.

• Loosening the braid, I made a quick assessment of the dye placement and the hand-feel of the fibres. My notes here - the fibres were next to skin soft with a seemingly unfussy distribution of colour.

• Determining the spin parameters, I stuck to my ethos of keeping it simple. I opted for a 2-ply construction with a plan to spin the singles at my comfort grist – usually around 30 wraps per inch resulting in a fingering/4ply weight yarn when two singles are plied.

• Prepping the fibre, I split the tops in two, lengthwise. I set one length aside for the first single and then split the remaining half lengthwise again for the second single. This would hopefully maintain some of the original colour placement but also distribute the colours throughout to produce a variegated and self-striping yarn.

• I spun both singles on a Louët S17 spinning wheel. I used a yarn gauge to track my WPI and maintain some uniformity between the singles.

• I kept the finishing minimal plying both singles together directly from their bobbins and finished the skein with a short soak to revive the fibres.

• The resulting yarn was light and soft with moderate twist. I didn’t measure the yardage but thought it likely to be around 400m at fingering/4ply weight.

THE KNIT

• Finding a suitable project started with plugging all the parameters into the Ravelry pattern search - weight, yardage and category. Given the yardage and character of the yarn I thought a cowl or small shawl would work well.

• Wanting to learn more about shawl construction and lacework I went with the Grateful Moments shawl pattern, it already had several projects using hand spun yarns to great effect so seemed like the perfect fit.

• I didn’t swatch, I just jumped in and knit until I ran out of yarn!

FINISHING

I gave the shawl a short soak in a bath of cool water. I pinned the shawl out on a blocking mat giving attention to opening out the full wingspan and pinning out the selvage to highlight the lace detail.

INSIGHTS AND OPPORTUNITIES

THE SPIN

• The fine superwash Merino fibre made for an easy spin without having to do too much prep work.

• Some of the splashy colour within the original braid did dilute with drafting but that was to be expected. I was happy to see much of the pink sections were preserved and come through in the resulting yarn.

• The S17 is such a solid wheel, I’m finding it just handles anything I throw at it. I love the huge bobbin capacity, there was more than enough room on one bobbin to ply the full 100g!

THE KNIT

• The pattern was well written and easy to follow. The lace chart wasn’t too complex for a first timer like me.

• I did bind-off one or two repeats early as I was about to run out of yarn. The resulting size was just right to wear the shawl in cowl or neckerchief style.

• The hand feel of the resulting fabric was light and next-to-skin soft.

• The interaction of colour in this piece is just amazing! I love studying the subtle gradients between the layers of pinks, purples and browns.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Overall, this was a very unstructured project. Though, when key decisions were made, I did make them with intention, understanding what impact they would have on the outcome of the project.

Hand spun projects don’t always have to begin with the end in mind. Being led by what you love most – the colours, textures, grist - is just a great way to get started. It also helps me stay interested and see the project out to the end!

Triangular shawls are such a great way to feature variegated yarns I definitely see more in my future.

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THANK YOU FOR READING!

Would you like to save this project for later?

Add it to your Ravelry favourites HERE.

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Explore More Studio projects…

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Do you love colour-play and creating texture?

Meet the Louët Blending Board, the fibre artists essential tool for experimenting with colour and blending your favourite fibres.

Suitable for a spectrum of fibre types and preparations, layer colour and texture onto the Louët Blending Board to create rolags, batts and rovings perfect for woollen-spun yarns, art yarns and custom spins.

With ergonomic carry handle and adjustable rotating keel that can be fixed in three places, you’re guaranteed the ultimate comfort while blending fibres for your next spin.

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More Fibre Prep Tools From Louët…

Hand Carders

Louët hand carders combine ergonomic design with a lightness in hand.

You’ll comfortably create rolags, mini batts and rovings ideal for woollen-spun yarns.

Available in a fine carding cloth of 110 tpi, suitable for a spectrum of medium to fine fibres.

Mini Combs

Louët Mini Combs are a compact option for de-hairing, blending and aligning your fibres for worsted spinning.

These combs are suitable for a spectrum of fine fibres.

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If you’re interested in exploring fibre prep and how it influences yarn characteristics we recommend these fantastic resources:

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WAITLIST

The Spinner’s Book of Fleece

Beth Smith introduces you to a range of spinning and fibre prep tools, providing guidance on choosing the right tool for your project.

She explores various combing and carding methods and shows you how these can be used to influence the look and feel of your spun yarns. Learn more…

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WAITLIST

Yarnitecture

Jillian Moreno delivers an in depth discussion on woollen and worsted yarns, presenting an amazing collection of spun samples to illustrate how fibre prep influences colour distribution and texture. Learn more…

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